A slow adventure on two wheels, discovering Portugal’s Douro Valley

Experience the joys of cycling in Europe, with this biking holiday in the Douro

We could talk endlessly about Portugal’s Douro Valley. It’s terraced vineyards, spectacular views, sleepy villages, and incredible food and wine are just a few reasons why it’s a cyclist’s paradise.

But rather than us telling you how fantastic it is here, we thought we’d hand over the reins to someone who’s discovered it for themselves on our Douro Valley e-bike cycling trip.

Over to Jacquie…..

Is Northern Portugal Europe’s best kept secret for cyclists?

I first visited Portugal in my 20’s, on a package holiday to the Algarve. Back then, I was content with a beach holiday, soaking up the sun and the warmth of the Portuguese people.

But, since then, my idea of the perfect holiday has changed. Now, I crave adventures that allow me to connect with a place and discover the lesser known corners. These days, I love walking and cycling holidays that let you slow down and soak up the experience.

When the opportunity came up to visit Northern Portugal, somewhere I knew very little about, I was intrigued. Naively, I’d assumed this part of the country was untouched by tourism, a hidden gem waiting to be found. To my surprise, I learned that it’s well-connected, with an international airport bringing visitors from across Europe, Africa, and North America.

I also discovered it was an ideal place for a holiday on the bike.

 

Exploring historic Porto

Our journey began in Porto, arriving early in the day. Eager to explore, we wandered around the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage city. The streets were vibrant and full of colour, with street art and buildings adorned with traditional Portuguese azulejo tiles.

The historic Ribeira district, on the riverbank of the Douro, was like a picture postcard. We crossed the river via the iconic Dom Luís bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia, where we quickly realised the significance of port wine in this region. The old warehouses along the riverbank once stored barrels of port before being shipped overseas.

Taking the cable car to the upper deck of the bridge, we had a bird’s eye view of the city. From there, we continued our exploration, visiting São Bento railway station where over 20,000 azulejo tiles show Portugal’s rich history. By the time we checked into our hotel later for a much needed rest, I’d already fallen in love with Porto.

It was the perfect start to our week in Northern Portugal.

 

Cycling in the Alto Douro, Portugal

The next morning, we set off on the scenic drive to the Douro region. Arriving in Alijó, we received a warm welcome from our hosts, Luísa and Mario at Casa d’Arcã. Their family-run guesthouse is a real hidden gem. Our room was beautiful, with steps leading out into the garden and swimming pool. It was the kind of place where I could have easily spent the rest of the day relaxing.

But it was time to get pedalling!

Although I cycle regularly in the UK, this was my first time on an e-bike. After a quick briefing, we set off, and I was immediately struck by how much fun it was. The motor gave me a boost on the hills, making cycling a breeze. My worries about adjusting to the brakes being on the opposite side – and cycling on the opposite side of the road – quickly faded.

The afternoon ride was a gentle introduction to the area, taking us on quiet roads and even a little gravel cycling. The landscape was a patchwork of terraced vineyards. At São Mamede de Ribatua, we stopped to take in the breathtaking view over the Tua River valley. It was simply beautiful.

We returned to Alijó for a quick change before heading out to Quinta de Faisca for a wine tour. Fernanda, our guide, brought the Douro region to life with her stories. As we sipped moscatel, a fortified wine made outside the demarcated Douro region, we relaxed and soaked up the views across the valley.

The next day began with an incredible breakfast laid out by Luísa, the perfect fuel for our ride ahead. We set off for Pinhão and stumbled across a traditional ceremony on the main street in Favaios. It was a moment of serendipity, making our journey here even more special.

From there, we continued towards Pinhão, stunned by the breathtaking scenery. The steeply terraced vineyards stretched for miles. We learned that the terraces here are too narrow for machinery, meaning the annual harvest is still done by hand. I already wanted to return in late September to see it.

 

Market day at Pinhão

Pinhão is a small town and a hub for tourists visiting by train or river cruise from Porto. We’d arrived on market day, and the place was alive with activity. We pushed our bikes through the throng of people and decided to press on.

I’d seen the steep hill profile out of Pinhão on the GPS app and wondered if this would be a challenge too far. But the e-bike made cycling up it surprisingly easy, and I found myself chatting away as we rode.

One of the highlights of the day was a detour to the Miradouro de Santa Marinha, a viewpoint with panoramic views over the Douro and Tua river valleys. This is the kind of place that stops you in your tracks, where you can’t help but feel in awe of the landscape. I could have stayed there for hours.

The following day, we bid a fond farewell to our peaceful retreat at Casa d’Arcã and set off for the bustling city of Vila Real. Our route began on a quiet cycle track alongside forest, towards the pretty village of Sanfins do Douro. The landscape here changed from vineyards to mountainous flora, showing us a different side to the Douro. After the village, we were back in vineyard territory, riding through hamlets on mostly traffic-free roads, allowing us the time and space to become immersed in the scenery.

Arriving at Sabrosa, birthplace of the explorer Magellan, I expected to be pedalling on busier roads. But, once again, we turned on a quiet back road. It was clear that a lot of thought had gone into route planning, with quieter ways found around busy areas.

I did a double take as we passed the entrance to Mateus Palace. This Portuguese rosé with its distinctive bottle was the height of sophistication in 1970’s UK! Although the wine isn’t produced here, the palace’s iconic facade is still used on the label. We didn’t visit, but I’ve heard the palace and grounds – both open to visitors – are stunning.

Beyond the palace, we turned onto an Eco Pista, a disused railway track giving us a smooth, traffic-free path into the heart of Vila Real. That evening, we explored the old town, finding riverside paths and shops selling the distinctive traditional black pottery from the region.

We enjoyed a meal at Restaurante 22, a wonderful place that felt more like being in someone’s home than a restaurant. The food was superb, and we noticed a wall lined with pictures of famous Portuguese people who’d also dined there.

 

Cycling to the Douro River

The next day saw us cycling on the famous N2, a driving road that runs the full length of Portugal. We quickly left the city behind, pedalling high above the Corgo River. Our route passed beneath a huge motorway suspension bridge. With a 300m (984ft) span and at 220m (722ft) high, it was an impressive sight!

Despite being on a national driving route now, the traffic was surprisingly quiet as we meandered through small villages and towns.

Arriving in Peso de Régua, a lively tourist hotspot, we crossed a lovely pedestrian bridge over the Douro River, watching the boats and canoes below. From there, we climbed towards Lamego, where the Baroque-style Nossa Senhora dos Rémedios church greeted us with its 686 steps rising high above the town.

Lamego was a treasure trove of history! We explored the gothic Cathedral with its frescoed ceilings and beautiful cloister garden. Then, after lunch, we tackled the steep cobbled lanes leading to the medieval castle, giving us panoramic views across the city.

We spent two nights in Lamego, staying at the luxurious Lamego Hotel and Spa. It was the perfect base for cycling a circular route from the town. The ride took us through cherry orchards and up into the mountains to reach the highest point of the whole trip.

At 726m (2,385ft), the views were spectacular, and we could pick out everywhere we’d been pedalling through. We finished the ride with a visit to the awe inspiring Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. There, in the church grounds, we found a chestnut tree believed to be 700 years old!

 

Pedalling through fruit orchards

Our final day on the bikes was one of my favourites, cycling through fruit orchards and tiny villages, on peaceful country roads. We visited Ucanha, with its medieval bridge and tower, and Salzedas, home to a historic monastery. Dating back to 1255, the monks from here are said to have invented port wine in the region.

We continued our ride with a fun gravel track through more fruit orchards. Finally, we returned to the banks of the Douro River and followed the scenic N222 – voted the world’s most beautiful road in 2015 – back to Régua.

Our Douro Valley cycling trip ended with a vineyard tour at Viera de Sousa where 5th generation winemaker, Luísa, introduced us to port wine. Reflecting on our journey, I felt a deep sense of contentment. A holiday on bikes had allowed us to truly connect with the rich history, culture, and natural beauty of the region.

Northern Portugal and the Douro Valley was an unforgettable experience, showcasing why I believe this truly is one of the best places to go cycling in Europe. I’ll carry the memories of our adventure for a long time to come.

 

CHECK OUT OUR DOURO VALLEY E-BIKE CYCLING TRIP HERE

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About the Author:

Jacquie Budd is a Marketing Content Writer for brands that care about their impact on people and the planet. She’s also founder of the popular outdoor adventure website www.outdoor-girl.com.