Crossing borders on two wheels, a self-guided cycling tour through northern Portugal and Spain

Guest article:
This article was written by a cyclist invited to experience our Gerês-Xurés Cross-Border Biosphere Reserve cycling trip between Portugal and Spain. They rode the full route and shared their personal story with us.

Have you ever found yourself cycling somewhere so quiet, so wild, and so beautiful, that you just want to stop pedalling and soak it all in?

That was me, halfway down a winding mountain road in the Peneda Gerês National Park, northern Portugal, somewhere between a herd of wild horses and Roman milestones.

I was on a self-guided cycling holiday through the Gerês-Xurés Cross-Border Biosphere Reserve. I’ve travelled to some incredible places over the years but, honestly, this turned out to be one of my favourites.

 

Cycling off the beaten track between two countries

I love places that feel a bit wild and undiscovered, and this trip totally delivered. I’d heard of the Gerês National Park before – it is the only national park in Portugal after all. But I hadn’t realised that just across the border, it blends seamlessly into Spain’s Baixa Limia-Serra do Xurés Natural Park.

What made this trip really special wasn’t just the stunning location (although the scenery was incredible). It was the peacefulness of cycling along quiet roads and passing through tiny rural villages. One day, I think we counted only five cars the entire ride.

Over the course of a week, we crossed the border between Portugal and Spain four times. The crossing that really stuck in my mind was the day we went from Spain into Portugal and back again, all within 15 minutes. Back at the hotel, we looked at the map and saw how the border looped around one village which stayed proudly Portuguese despite being the only non-Spanish village on the road.

With no guide setting the pace, this trip meant we could stop for photos, linger at viewpoints, or just take a breather. That’s the thing I love about a self-guided cycling tour like this. We had the freedom to do things our own way yet have the confidence of a mapped out GPS route showing us the best of Portugal and Spain.

 

Pedalling through history – Roman roads, ancient wolf traps, and more

I’d fully expected to see some beautiful scenery on this trip, but the route was full of historical surprises too.

In the Peneda-Gerês National Park, we cycled along the Geira Roman Road (also known as the Via Nova or Roman Road XVIII). It once connected Braga and Astorga over 2,000 years ago, back when the Roman Empire was thriving.

Surprisingly, this old dirt track is classed as a two-way public road so, on busier days you come across some entertaining sights as vehicles try to squeeze past each other. We could easily keep out of the way on our bikes though and simply enjoy the views.

Another day, we passed megalithic burial sites and an ancient wolf trap built into the hillside. The stone structure had sculptures of a wolf and a goat, and an information board close by that explained how it was once used. Shepherds would protect their flocks by driving wolves down from the mountains and into the narrow trap that ended in a pit. It was fascinating!

These really weren’t the kind of sights you’d find on a picture postcard in tourist areas. They felt like glimpses into an ancient way of life, the sort of discoveries you don’t expect but remember long after the trip ends.

 

Discovering rural life in northern Portugal and Galicia

I fell in love with the tiny villages of northern Portugal and Galicia.

As we cycled through, locals would wave and call out a friendly hello. In some places, it felt like time had shifted into a slower gear – or maybe the rest of the world just moves too fast.

In one village, Puxedo, old buildings were decorated with murals showing scenes of rye harvesting and local traditions. In another, we saw stone granaries (espigueiros) raised off the ground on stilts to keep the grain dry.

One of the highlights of the trip was our two-night stay in Porqueirós, a tiny hamlet tucked into forested hills. No shops, no traffic, just fresh air, nature, and two very good restaurants serving amazing wine and regional food.

 

E-bike climbs and scenic descents

This trip had its fair share of climbs – it was in the mountains of Portugal and Spain after all. But we had e-bikes as standard, so the battery took care of all the hard work. Besides, the views made it worth every single spin of the pedals.

On the second day, we set off from the mountain top village of Sto António de Mixōes, sitting at 728 metres above sea level. I loved hearing about the Blessing of the Animals here. It’s an annual tradition where local farmers bring their animals to the church square. The priest stands on a balcony and blesses each one for health and good fortune for the year ahead.

The descent from the village may have been one of my favourites, or maybe it simply felt that way because it was the first! Later that day, we enjoyed another brilliant descent into Lobios, just over the Spanish border, where hot thermal springs were waiting to soothe our tired limbs.

My favourite climb of the trip was the ride up to Castro Laboeiro, back over the Portuguese border and perched almost 1,000 metres above sea level. The road wound through forests and opened out to views across the valley. We saw the old transhumance villages here, the Inverneiras used in winter, with separate summer homes higher up on the plateau. It was another reminder of the deep-rooted rural traditions in this region.

At the summit, we parked the bikes and walked up to the old castle ruins. There were no crowds here, just a gentle breeze and a view I’ll never forget.

On the final day, we rolled back down into the Minho Valley. The grins on our faces said it all, with smooth tarmac, winding roads, and amazing views. We arrived in Monção, on the banks of the River Minho, grabbed a coffee, and followed a traffic-free riverside trail all the way to Valença.

 

Where we stayed on our self-guided cycling tour

We stayed in a mix of places along the route, each with its own character. From mountain villages to historic riverside towns, each one gave us a real sense of the region and added to the experience.

• • Ponte de Lima
    One of Portugal’s oldest towns, with cobbled streets, leafy squares, and a Roman bridge across the River Lima. It’s a great place to stroll, grab a bite to eat, and soak up the atmosphere.

 

• • Lobios
    Just across the border in Spain, it’s a perfect place to unwind after a day in the saddle. The natural hot springs, either outside or inside the hotel pool, are fabulous for easing tired legs.

 

• • Porqueirós
    A sleepy little hamlet in Spain, surrounded by nature. It has no shops but does have two incredible restaurants.

 

• • Castro Laboreiro
    A fabulous mountain top village in Portugal, sitting at nearly 1,000 metres high. The 12th century castle ruins are well worth the short walk, and there’s also a small museum telling the story of rural life in the region.

 

• Valença
  This fortified border town on the River Minho is known for its traditional textile shops and historic walls. It’s just a short walk across the International Bridge to Tui on the Spanish side, with its tapas bars and 12th century cathedral.

 

Two countries, one ride, infinite memories

Looking back, it’s hard to pick just one moment that defined this trip.

Was it soaking in the thermal springs in Lobios at the end of a long day riding?

Or standing at the border stone near Tourém, one side marked P for Portugal, the other E for Spain, shaking hands from two different countries?

Maybe it was the language mix-ups, where I’d thank people by saying Obrigada in Spain, and Gracias in Portugal because I’d ridden into a different country that day.

Or the views. Those endless, stunning views and all the quiet reminders of an older, slower way of life.

Because this didn’t feel like any old self-guided cycling holiday through Spain and Portugal. It was a reminder of how good it feels to slow down, to be curious, and to ride with a sense of wonder.

 

Inspired? Plan your own cross-border cycling adventure

If you’re considering a cycling tour in the Peneda-Gerês National Park, my advice is to stop thinking and start booking. Honestly!

The trip is ideal for anyone that’s been searching for self-guided cycling holidays in northern Portugal or Spain. It’s a peaceful corner of the world, with incredible mountains and stunning scenery. Because of the handpicked accommodation, it balances adventure with comfort. The food is fresh and local, and the scenery changes by the hour.

And because its self-guided, you can ride in your own way, on your own time. The e-bikes made the climbs easy, and the descents were just pure fun.

So, next time someone asks me, “Where should I go cycling in Europe?”.
I’ll smile and say, “Have you ever heard of Peneda-Gerês?”.

They probably haven’t – and that’s exactly why I think it’s so special.

Note: This post reflects the experience of an invited guest on a Portugal Green Walks self-guided cycling tour. All opinions and insights shared are those of the author.

 

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