Walking in Peneda-Gerês National Park
The weather was grim the day I went to the Peneda-Gerês National Park but I ended up seeing more of its rugged landscapes than I’d anticipated.
Hiking in the mountains in bad weather is a dangerous activity so my guides, Paulo and Isabel, decided to abandon our planned walk to the top of Peneda in favour of a driving tour of the park with shorter walks and scenic stops.
See also: Community Lifestyles in the Mountain Villages of Peneda-Gerês National Park
Short walking trails near Parada
We entered the Peneda-Gerês National Park from the direction of Ponte da Barca, making our first stop in Parada. The village itself was once a very important settlement in the area and you can still see the former jail and council buildings. Parada is also the starting point for a couple of walking trails. We walked part of the Trilho dos Moinhos (Path of the Mills) along rock-lined trails and over wooden bridges until we reached Poço da Gola, one of the many lagoons in the park, then turned back to venture further into the Peneda-Gerês National Park.
Lovely Lindoso
Our next stop was Lindoso, once the administrative capital of the area. It still has the remains of a castle, which you can visit. The village is more famous these days for its collection of stone espigueiros (corn storage units), some of which are still in use. Most of the 54 espigueiros are gathered around the communal eira (threshing floor). The round stones at the top of their legs are a cunning way of keeping mice out of the corn store; mice can’t defy gravity!
Lindoso is also one of the five park gates, all of which provide maps of walking trails and provide updates on their current status as well as information about the local flora, fauna and geological features and toilet facilities.
Alto Lindoso Dam
After leaving Lindoso we drove along a scenic route to the other side of the valley, stopping briefly to peer over the Alto Lindoso Dam. The reservoir was full thanks to recent heavy rains and the force of the water being purged into the river below was magnificent. When water levels are considerably lower, it’s possible to see the tops of the ruined houses that were submerged when the reservoir was created.
Senhora da Peneda Sanctuary
We arrived at the sanctuary of Senhora da Peneda after driving through the dramatic and constantly changing scenery. The sanctuary is a hub for pilgrims who follow well-worn walking routes from the mountain villages and larger towns such as Monção and Arcos de Valdevez. I was just relieved that, unlike the pilgrims, we didn’t have to climb the hundreds of steps leading up to the church.
Soajo
Our next stop was Soajo, a large village with its own collection of espigueiros perched on large boulders below the castle. Various footpaths connect Soajo with Lindoso, Peneda and surrounding villages. We chose the Caminhos do Pão e do Fé (Paths of Bread and Faith).
Deep grooves have been worn into the stones from centuries of ox-drawn carts that transported corn from the fields up to a series of water-powered mills before making the return journey with sacks of flour. The footpath passes traditional stone cottages and walls with views of terraced, cultivated fields and wild mountains in the distance.
Walking without a guide
It’s possible to do most of the shorter walks around the villages without a guide if you look out for the yellow and red route markers painted onto rocks. If you intend to do any of the longer, more remote trails, you should get hold of a leaflet or a PDA and always check what the current state of the path is with the park staff.
Why a guide might be a good idea
Walking with someone who knows the terrain and the history of the Peneda-Gerês National Park has several benefits. Not only can you be confident you won’t get lost in the mountains, you’ll also learn more about the traditions and culture of these remote villages. A guide can also tailor routes specifically for your group and organise picnics and even traditional music or workshops en route.
By Julie Dawn Fox
