A self-guided cycling adventure in Portugal and Spain, riding from Braga to Santiago de Compostela

Cross-border cycling in Portugal’s Minho and Galicia’s Rías Baixas is all about exploring at your own pace

Guest article:
This article was written by a cyclist invited to experience our self-guided cycling tour from Braga to Santiago de Compostela. They got to ride the route firsthand and share their personal story.

 

I love exploring new places on two wheels, especially when it’s an adventure over a few days. There’s something exciting about starting the day in one place and ending in another. But it’s not just about getting to the final destination, it’s about all the things I discover along the way.

Portugal Green Walks’ self-guided cycling holiday through Spain and Portugal took that sense of adventure a step further. The route actually crossed the border, which was a first for me – I’d never cycled into another country before.

The trip began in Braga, in northern Portugal and finished on the steps of Spain’s iconic cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Over six days, we pedalled through beautiful countryside, vineyards, and fishing villages. We cycled along the wild Atlantic coastline and, by the time we rolled into Santiago, it felt like we’d had a real taste of life on both sides of the border.

 

Wandering around Braga, the City of Bells

I’d heard of Braga before and even seen it on a TV series called Portugal with Michael Portillo. He called Braga the ‘Rome of Portugal’ and climbed the famous baroque staircase to the Bom Jesus do Monte shrine overlooking the city.

Even so, I hadn’t expected Braga to feel so relaxed and welcoming. As we wandered the cobbled streets, I thought it had a small town, friendly feel.

Braga is one of Portugal’s oldest cities, with over 2,000 years of history, and it’s packed with churches giving it another nickname, the City of Bells. We watched a small group of locals dancing in the square to traditional music, wandered past historic buildings and beautiful gardens, then settled outside a pastelaria to watch the world go by.

It was a perfect welcome back to northern Portugal and made me realise just how much I’d missed the country.

 

Riding into Portugal’s green countryside

The next morning, our bikes were delivered, and we set off on our cycling adventure to Spain. It wasn’t long before we’d left the busy city streets behind, riding on quiet rural roads through pretty villages.

This part of Portugal is stunning and might come as a surprise if you’ve only pictured the country as dry and sun-baked. We were there in late April, and the Minho region was lush and green. The landscape even reminded me of the UK in places, only with lemon trees brimming with fruit and small holdings full of vegetables and vines.

We pedalled through picture-postcard towns like Ponte da Barca and Arcos de Valdevez, right on the edge of Portugal’s only National Park, the Peneda-Gerês. Arcos sits on the banks of the River Vez and has an amazing water clock in the town square which marks the hours through water fountains. It’s a great place to explore after a day in the saddle, and there’s even a hiking trail alongside the river to stretch the legs.

This part of Portugal is full of history too. We followed a Roman lane near Braga, passed grand quintas once owned by wealthy monasteries, pedalled across medieval bridges, and rode past the Torre de Lapela overlooking the River Minho.

Our final kilometres in Portugal followed the Ecopista do Minho, a traffic-free path alongside the river to the fortified town of Valença. Known for its traditional linens and textile shops, Valença was the perfect place to end the Portuguese leg of our cycling trip.

 

Crossing borders and cycling into Spain

From Valença, we cycled over the River Minho into Spain, via the International Bridge. It’s an incredible two tier structure with a railway line above the road and a pedestrian walkway on the side.

Coming from the UK, I always love how seamless border crossings are in Europe. But cycling into another country? That was a new one for me, and I loved it. Naturally, we had to stop for an obligatory photo at the border sign!

Our first stop in Spain was Tui, where we stopped by the 12th century cathedral and grabbed a morning coffee from a lovely cafe around the corner. After that, we joined the Portuguese Camino de Santiago, cycling on leafy trails alongside pilgrims with walking sticks and backpacks. The Camino atmosphere was amazing. As we passed walkers, they’d call out Bon Caminho or ask where we were headed that day.

The route gradually took us closer to the coast and into Galicia’s stunning Rías Baixas region. The coastline here has fjord-like inlets, white sandy beaches, and turquoise water. It felt like a secret part of Spain that most tourists (unless they’re local) don’t even know about.

That night, we stayed in Pontevedra, a beautiful city with a pedestrianised old town and strong ties to the Camino. We spent the evening wandering the streets and soaking up the atmosphere before heading to a tapas bar for dinner.

 

Galician beaches, pretty villages, and fabulous wine

Leaving Pontevedra, we joined part of the Camino’s Spiritual Variant, a quiet and scenic trail that winds along the Galician coast. Riding into Combarro, I fell in love with this gorgeous old village with its narrow lanes, tiny granite houses, and hórreos (stone grain stores) lining the shore.

Continuing along the coast, we pedalled through Sanxenxo and Portonovo, two lively towns with holiday makers enjoying the beach and seaside cafes. Our destination was O Grove, a relaxed harbour town on a peninsula that’s important for migrating birds. What a beautiful place! The views were wonderful, and we enjoyed fresh seafood at a restaurant overlooking the harbour.

Our route through Galicia often followed part of the newly extended EuroVelo 1 – Atlantic Coast Route. We pedalled along the coastline, through the heart of Albariño wine country, and over a 2km long bridge to the Isle of Arousa. This small island is surrounded by sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. A circular route took us along the coast and through forests, with stunning views around every bend. It was a real highlight of the journey.

 

Boat and bike to Santiago

Our final day of the cycling in Galicia was one to remember. We boarded a boat in Vilanova de Arousa and sailed along the Ruta Traslatio, the only maritime route of the Camino de Santiago. It would take us to Pontecesures, where we’d complete the rest of the route to Santiago on land.

The boat was full of pilgrims completing their own journey to Santiago, and the atmosphere was amazing. We sailed past hundreds of mussel rafts (bateas) as the captain shared stories, pointing out landmarks and stone crosses that mark the world’s only maritime way of the cross.

Back on dry land, we stopped in Padrón for a traditional lunch of Galician broth and Pulpo (Octopus) before cycling the final few kilometres to Santiago.

While we may not have started out as pilgrims, we definitely felt part of the Camino on that final stretch. There was a buzz in the air and a real sense of celebration as we rolled into the square and looked up at the iconic cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

 

Thoughts about our cycling journey through Portugal and Spain

Our bike trip through northern Portugal and Galicia, Spain, was the kind of travel that really let us connect with the places we passed through.

I always think that’s the beauty of exploring by bike. It’s a slower, more immersive adventure. You’re not watching the world go by from behind the glass window of a vehicle, you’re right there in it.

We rode through two countries, followed ancient Camino trails, cycled on Roman roads, crossed Medieval bridges, and shared the path with pilgrims. We tasted incredible regional food and wine, met kind strangers, and soaked up the beauty of the Minho and Rías Baixas landscapes.

If you’re thinking about a self-guided cycling adventure through Spain and Portugal,
this route is a gem. It has everything – history, culture, nature, and food. Best of all, it gives you the freedom to experience it all at your own pace, and in your own way.

 

A few top tips for a self-guided cycling holiday through Portugal’s Minho and Galicia’s Rías Baixas in Spain

What I love about a self-guided cycling holiday is that you can explore at your own pace and discover in your own way. But there are a few things I found useful that might help you get even more out of the adventure.

• Allow time to queue for the cathedral in Santiago
  It’s well worth exploring inside the UNESCO World Heritage Site but it can get very busy, especially in peak season.
• Enjoy breaks in the small towns
  Places like Ponta da Barca, Arcos de Valdevez, Combarro, and O Grove are made for lingering – stop for coffee and enjoy the atmosphere.
• Learn a few Portuguese and Spanish phrases
  While many people speak English, a few friendly words in the local language go a long way and always earn a smile – sometimes even a hug!
• Taste the regional food and wine
  From Albariño white wine to Galician seafood, Portuguese pastries, and Pudim Abade de Priscos, this region is packed with flavour.
• Carry a camera or have your phone to hand
  The views on this trip are so incredible that you’ll want to stop and capture them, and of course, that border crossing moment!
• Take it slow
  The joy of this bike trip is the journey, not the finish line. Some of the best moments come from cafe stops and quiet moments of reflecting by the sea.

 

Note: This post reflects the experience of an invited guest on a Portugal Green Walks self-guided cycling tour. All opinions and insights shared are those of the author.

 

IF YOU WANT TO EXPERIENCE THIS INCREDIBLE ROUTE FOR YOURSELF, DISCOVER MORE ABOUT OUR TRIP EXPLORING NORTHERN PORTUGAL AND GALICIA BY BIKE AND START PLANNING YOUR ADVENTURE TODAY